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January 29, 2023

Madame Grès: One of the Great Couturiers in the 20th Century

Born 1903 as Germaine Krebs in Paris, Madame Grès was a remarkable couturier in the 20th century, known for using delicate pleats which turned ordinary fabric into Greek sculpture. She originally wanted to be a sculptor, but was unsuccessful. She then ventured into millinery, changing her name to Alix Barton. Her design house would be known as Alix from 1934 through 1942.

Fashion designs by Madame Grès in the 1950s

Grès first gained attention by designing the costumes for Jean Giraudoux’s play The Trojan War Will Not Take Place, and quickly became a leading designer of the day, whose clients included everything from duchesses to movie stars (Grace Kelly, Greta Garbo and Marlene Dietrich are a few of her more famous clients).

The New York Times called her couture house “the most intellectual place in Europe to buy clothes”. While Grès is most known for her draped Grecianesque gowns, she also showed talent in less formal designs. Her every day wear showed the same attention to detail and impeccable tailoring that her gowns did.

Grès had an extraordinarily long career, working until the late 1980s. She died in 1993 at the age of 90. These stunning photos are some of her designs that were wore by classic beauties in the 1950s.

Model in intricately draped red faille on black faille gown by Grès, photo by Philippe Pottier, 1950

Natalie Paine in bleached beige high tiny top and ingenious combination of skirt and knickers, the one joined inseparably to the other, by Grès, photo by Louise Dahl-Wolfe, Harper's Bazaar, June 1950

Model in black wool sheath dress, the bodice is of peacock blue faille, by Grès, photo by Philippe Pottier, 1951

Model in blue linen two-piece, exquisite in its simplicity, by Grès, photo by Philippe Pottier, 1951

Model in figure-hugging black dress worn with light sheer organza plaid jacket by Grés, hat by Gilbert Orcel, photo by Philippe Pottier, 1951

Anne Campion in dusty pink flannel two-piece by Grès, hat with voilette by Rose Valois, photo by Philippe Pottier, 1952

Gigi Terwalgne in a fun summer dress of two opposing colors by Grès, photo by Philippe Pottier, 1952

Model in evening gown of extraordinary work in taffeta, the elongated bodice has one shoulder knotted in back, skirt is made of shells in several tones covered with fine net of black tulle by Grès, photo by Philippe Pottier, 1952

Model in red printed satin evening coat with full balloon sleeves, the collar and cuffs lined in black silk, two-button closure at the waist, photo by Philippe Pottier, 1952

Marie-Thérèse is wearing pink organza dotted evening gown adorned with large grey satin bow by Grès, photo by Philippe Pottier, 1953

Stella in print mousseline and organdy manteau perfect for a garden party by Grès, photo by Philippe Pottier, L'Officiel, 1953

Lucky in evening gown, the skirt in two tones of silk organza, the bodice is scalloped on top and pointed below the waist, tied with gold ribbons, by Grès, photo by Philippe Pottier, 1954

Sunny Hartnett in a billowing hooded evening coat of ice blue satin by Grès, photo by Richard Avedon, Harper's Bazaar UK, December 1954

Jacky Mazel in figure-hugging coral silk-jersey evening dress worn with gold lamé evening coat by Grès, chandelier earrings by Scémama, photo by Philippe Pottier, 1955

Marie-Hélène Arnaud in one-shoulder crêpe de chatillon evening gown by Grès, photo by Philippe Pottier, 1955

Jacky Mazel in fiery red chiffon gown, a row of roses borders the draped bodice, by Grès, jewelry by Boucheron, photo by Philippe Pottier at the Musée Marmottan, Paris, 1956

Marie-Helene Arnaud in a lovely dotted mousseline evening gown by Grès, photo by Philippe Pottier, L'Officiel, 1956

Model in elegant understated gray wool dress with satin blouson bodice by Grès, hat by Svend, photo by Philippe Pottier, 1956

Model in fine wool checked suit, jacket has expanded bust and flexible back, worn over jersey blouse, by Grès, hat by Legroux, clutch by Muth, photo by Philippe Pottier, 1956

Elegant blue and white silk print dress with enormous coxcomb on one shoulder by Grès, photo by Philippe Pottier, L'Officiel, 1957

Model in Desert Gold EMBA mink stole by Max Reby, gold matelasse gown by Grès, photo by Virginia Thoren, 1957

Model in green wool jersey dress draped and gathered at the waist by Grès, photo by Philippe Pottier, 1957

Model in print silk taffeta dress, one-shoulder bodice and over-skirt is split in two panels by Grès, photo by Philippe Pottier, 1957

Model in white crêpe gown flowing out of itself into pleats that follow the shape of the figure by Grès, photo by William Klein in Paris, Vogue, October 1, 1957

Rose Marie in gorgeous blue draped satin gown gathered at the hip and split at the ankles worn under a hooded cloak of same material by Grès, photo by Philippe Pottier, 1957

Simone d'Aillencourt in beige and orange jersey dress, bodice is gathered at the shoulders and buttoned belt holds pleats in front, by Grès, photo by Philippe Pottier, 1957

Simone d'Aillencourt in fluid one-shoulder mousseline jersey gown banded and tied in bows of velvet by Grès, jewelry by Scémama, photo by Philippe Pottier, 1957

Simone d'Aillencourt in green crêpe dress, the supple bodice with cowl neck ends in scalloped sleeves, belt of the same material is tied in knot at the side, by Grès, jewelry by Roger Scémama, photo by Philippe Pottier, 1957

Ghislaine Arsac is wearing strapless silk floral print dress with vibrant red organdy cape by Grès, photo by Philippe Pottier, L'Officiel, 1958

Model in silk print evening gown by Grès, photo by Jacques Decaux, 1958

Simone d'Aillencourt in pretty floral silk print dress with a blouson top by Grès, photo by Philippe Pottier, 1958

Simone d'Aillencourt in silk jersey dress draped and pleated by Grès, photo by Philippe Pottier, 1958

Denise Sarrault in gala evening gown of rose Cigaline de Bucol by Grès, jewelry by Sterlé, photo by Georges Saad, 1959

Gigi Terwalgne in blue and white wool houndstooth, short collarless bolero worn over red silk blouse by Grès, hat by Jane Blanchot, photo by Philippe Pottier, 1959

Isabella Albonico in magnificent gown with enormous wing-like sleeves of Venetian green velvet and taffeta by Grès, photo by Irving Penn, Vogue, December 1, 1959

Jean Newington in blue and green print taffeta evening gown with blue taffeta circular stole, by Grès, jewelry by Van Cleef & Arpels, photo by Philippe Pottier, 1959

Joanna McCormick in frothy tulle pink ball gown by Grès, Rue de la Pink lipstick by Coty, photo by Sante Forlano, Vogue, April 15, 1959

Model in Bianchini lunasatin cocktail dress by Grès, photo by Sabine Weiss, 1959

Model in cozy reversible wool coat by Grès, hat by Jean Barthet, shoes by Charles Jourdan, photo by Philippe Pottier, 1959

Model in silky wool coat by Grès, hat by Jean Barthet, handbag by Durer, necklace by Scémama, photo by Philippe Pottier, 1959

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