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February 21, 2026

Mad Carpentier: The Architects of Post-War Couture

Mad Carpentier was a prestigious French haute couture house that epitomized the sculptural elegance of post-war Parisian fashion. Formed in 1940 through the partnership of Mad Maltezos and Suzy Carpentier, the house became renowned for its sophisticated architectural cutting and masterful draping.

While many of their contemporaries focused on restrictive corsetry, Mad Carpentier gained a loyal following for designs that celebrated a fluid yet structured femininity, often featuring intricate pleating and bold, sweeping silhouettes. Their work was frequently highlighted in the pages of Vogue and L’Officiel, representing the pinnacle of French craftsmanship during the 1940s and ’50s.

The partnership ended in late 1957, when Mad Maltezos left to join Patou. Below are some fashion designs from Mad Carpentier in the 1940s and ’50s.

Model in rose satin dress with a garland of shoulder drapery which falls into a hood by Mad Carpentier, photo by Lee Miller, Paris, December 1, 1944

Model in rabbit fur coat spotted like ocelot with an elegant sleeve, broad at the top, tapered at the wrist by Mad Carpentier, photo by Louise Dahl-Wolfe, Harper's Bazaar, November 1946

Barbara Goalen wearing en elegant afternoon dress in black wool with small cape effect and a wide patent leather belt that holds the lapels in place by Mad Carpentier, photo by Clifford Coffin, Vogue, Paris, October 1948

Model wearing a draped evening dress called "Vampire" by Mad Carpentier, Vogue, Paris, October 1948

Model wearing a black wool coat featuring pointed collar and cuffs by Mad Carpentier, photo by Robert Randall, Vogue, Paris, October 1949

Model wearing a gray flannel suit with large three-quarter sleeves worn with a red-and-black printed scarf tucked into the belted hacket by Mad Carpentier, hat by Gerard Albouy, photo by Arik Nepo, Vogue, Paris, March 1949

Jean Dawnay in slim jersey dress of pink and beige diagonal bands, by Mad Carpentier, photo by Philippe Pottier, 1950

Model in green and brown checked wool coat, cuffs and collar trimmed in fox fur, by Mad Carpentier, photo by Philippe Pottier, 1950

Sylvie Hirsch in pretty halter dress in tones of blue, red and violet by Mad Carpentier, photo by Philippe Pottier, 1950

Model wearing a suit called "Milord L'Arsouille" by Mad Carpentier, Vogue, Paris, April 1951

Sophie Malgat in swingy pink wool coat, cut on the bias with collar placed well away from the neck and short sleeves by Mad Carpentier, photo by Jean Moral, Paris, Harper's Bazaar, April 1951

Model in gray wool belted dress with high buttoned collar and wide sleeves by Mad Carpentier, Paris Vogue, October 1952

Model in black jersey dress that is belted and draped below the waist, the bodice can be worn closed, by Mad Carpentier, photo by Philippe Pottier, 1953

Sophie Malgat in brown and beige large weave tweed suit, jacket has wide cuffed sleeves single button closure at neckline, narrow skirt, by Mad Carpentier, felt hat is by Jane, photo by Philippe Pottier, 1953

Joan Olson in a romantic cream and black floral print dress bordered in black gros-grain ribbon by Mad Carpentier, photo by Philippe Pottier, 1954

Model in jersey dress by Mad Carpentier, photo by Nicole Bukzin, 1954

Model in lovely beige and white Dupioni silk print dress by Mad Carpentier, photo by Guy Arsac, 1954

Ghislaine Arsac in satin evening dress by Mad Carpentier, jewelry by Mellerio, coiffure by Guillaume, photo by Guy Arsac, 1955

Ghislaine Arsac in yellow cotton print dress, bodice is held up by thin straps, and flares into pleats of the full skirt, by Mad Carpentier, photo by Philippe Pottier, Le Jardin des Colombières, Menton, France, 1955

Jacky Mazel in velvet party dress with ermine trim around the neckline by Mad Carpentier, photo by Philippe Pottier, 1955

Marie-Hélène in silk organdy print dress by Mad Carpentier, photo by Guy Arsac, 1955

Model in gala evening ball gown of pale rose tulle overlaid with pale yellow lace, two long panels across the dress are of pale yellow and pink silk chiffon, by Mad Carpentier, photo by Georges Saad, 1955

Model is wearing a 3/4 jacket in navy and white cotton tweed over a navy cotton dress by Mad Carpentier, white piqué hat by Gerard Albouy, photo by Philippe Pottier, 1955

Ghislaine Arsac in Bianchini printed silk dress by Mad Carpentier, photo by Guy Arsac, 1956

Ghislaine Arsac in red wool suit, double-buttoned on jacket as well as skirt, by Mad Carpentier, hat by Gerard Albouy, handbag by Schilz, photo by Philippe Pottier, 1956

Model in striped wool dress with short bolero jacket by Mad Carpentier, photo by Nicole Bukzin, 1956

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