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January 8, 2026

Brigance: The Architect of American Sportswear

Tom Brigance (1913–1990), known professionally simply as Brigance, was a visionary designer who revolutionized American fashion, particularly during the 1940s and ’50s.

As the in-house designer for Lord & Taylor, Brigance became a master of the “American Look,” creating sportswear that was both functional and high-fashion. He is most celebrated for his innovative swimwear, which used clever draping, wrap-around silhouettes, and bold textile prints to flatter the female form without relying on heavy internal corsetry. His designs reflected the liberating spirit of the post-war era, moving away from rigid Parisian couture toward a more relaxed, sun-drenched aesthetic.

Brigance is remembered as a pioneer who proved that practical, ready-to-wear clothing could be just as sophisticated and timeless as high-end evening gowns.

Jean Patchett in bathing suit by Brigance, photo by Horst P. Horst, 1951

Jean Patchett in Crompton corduroy suit worn with a orange halter-ascot which buttons to the inside of the waist, by Brigance, photo by Clifford Coffin, Vogue, January 1, 1951

Suzy Parker in slate-blue suit by Brigance, photo by Horst P. Horst, 1951

Dorian Leigh in a parka for the beach in bright red poplin by Brigance of Nudelman, photo by Toni Frissell, Harper's Bazaar, January 1951

Sunny Harnett in gray denim dress with menswear stripes and piqué halter collar by Brigance for Sportsmaker, photo by John Rawlings, Vogue, May 15, 1951

Cherry Nelms in yellow and black print halter top and yellow striped skirt by Brigance, photo by Henry Clarke in Olhao, Portugal, Vogue, 1952

Model in winter jacket of silvered-brown wool worn with a camel's-hair skirt by Brigance of Frank Gallant, alligator bag by Lucille, hat from Dior-New York, photo by Horst P. Horst, Vogue, August 1, 1952

Sue Jenks in white tucked cotton shirt and a black linen skirt with fascia waist and a run of grosgrain ribbon on the sides by Brigance, photo by Henry Clarke, Portugal, Vogue, May 1, 1952

Carol McCallson in a gold vest over white blouse and aqua shorts, all by Brigance of Sportsmaker, photo by Francesco Scavullo, Glamour, April 1953

Carol McCallson in a green, patch-pocket shirt with gold blouse and black shorts tied at the waist with a gingham sash, all by Brigance of Sportsmaker, photo by Francesco Scavullo, Glamour, April 1953

Cherry Nelms and Jean Patchett in Dan River cotton sundress and bathing suit by Brigance, Vogue, December 1953

Cherry Nelms and Liz Pringle in red tartan suits both by Brigance of Sportsmaker, photo by John Rawlings, in Jamaica, Vogue, May 1, 1953

Cherry Nelms in sleeveless Geistex sweater over a Brigance of Sportsmaker halter dress, photo by Horst P. Horst, 1953

Dovima in cotton halter dress with simulated print embroidery by Brigance of Sportsmaker, Vogue, May 1, 1953

Georgia Hamilton in Celanese acetate surah dress by Brigance for Sportsmaker, Vogue, January 1953

Gyongyi Armstrong in salt and pepper tweed two-piece, a long belted shirt over a slender skirt by Brigance of Sportsmaker, photo by Frances McLaughlin, Vogue, October 1, 1953

Kitty Kopet in checked smock shirt and black pants by Brigance of Sportsmaker, photo by Genevieve Naylor, Harper's Bazaar, July 1953

Liz Pringle in black pin-striped cotton shirt and matching shorts over inner shirt of white Pima cotton by Brigance of Sportsmaker, photo by John Rawlings, Jamaica, Vogue, May 1, 1953

Evelyn Tripp and Jean Patchett in hand-screened crocodile prints on silky cotton, both designs by Brigance for Sportmaker, croc handbag by Gucci, straw hat by Sally Victor, photo by Erwin Blumenfeld, Vogue, May 1, 1954

Fall fashion pull-over with tapered trousers by Brigance, photo by Nina Leen, 1954

Jean Patchett in flowered silk shirt of African daisies embroidered on dotted white silk, orange silk shantung skirt, both by Brigance of Sportmaker, matching banded hat by Emme, photo by Irving Penn, Vogue, June 1954

Leonie Vernet in colorful zinnia print cotton broadcloth halter dress by Brigance for Sportmaker, photo by Frances McLaughlin, Vogue, January 1954

Model in silky gray coat with a great white linen collar in Forstmann silk and wool by Brigance of Frank Gallant, carryall by U.S. Handbags, hat by Lilly Daché, photo by Gleb Derujinsky, Harper's Bazaar, February 1954

Dovima in navy-blue Forstmann wool jersey suit by Frank Gallant for Brigance, hat by Sally Victor, photo by Karen Radkai, Vogue, February 1, 1955

Elsa Martinelli in black-and-white striped cotton bathing suit cut in culotte style by Brigance of Sportsmaker, photo by Henry Clarke at Castello di Trabia, Sicily, Vogue, January 1, 1955

Fiona Campbell-Walter in knee-length culottes and high-throated shirt, both of cotton sailcloth in shades of shallow and deep-water blues by Brigance of Sportsmaker, photo by Henry Clarke, Sicily, Vogue, January 1, 1955

Theo Graham in pale pink shirt and pale blue pleated skirt both with white dots, and yellow dotted cummerbund, by Brigance of Sportsmaker, photo by Leombruno-Bodi, Glamour, 1955

Anne St. Marie in short white cotton twill jacket over a black two-piece cotton twill bathingsuit by Brigance of Sportsmaker, hat by William J., photo by Irving Penn in Martinique, Vogue, May 15, 1956

Carmen Dell' Orefice in black Arnel jersey and Lastex maillot by Brigance of Sportsmaker, photo by Richard Rutledge, Vogue, November 15, 1956

Liz Pringle in striped cotton jersey beach shirt belted and hip-pocketed over a suit of the same cotton by Brigance of Sportmaker, photo by Richard Avedon, Harper's Bazaar U.S., May 1956

Jessica Ford wears a playsuit, slit to the waist at the sides, by Tom Brigance for Sportmaker and sandals by Bernardo, photo by Louise Dahl-Wolfe at a Hindu temple in Trinidad, Harper's Bazaar, 1957

Model in feathery blue and white worsted tweed with short cropped jacket by Brigance for Fonde, cloche by Adolfo of Emme, photo by Lillian Bassman, Harper's Bazaar, February 1957

China Machado in orange print tunic over black shorts in Cone cotton by Brigance, photo by Lillian Bassman, Harper's Bazaar, December 1958

Evelyn Tripp in Irish-green tweed greatcoat, perfect for traveling by Brigance for Fondé, hooded shirt by Sportwhirl, luggage by Atlantic, photo by Louise Dahl-Wolfe, Harper's Bazaar, January 1958

Jessica Ford in one-piece jumpsuit in a garden print of Everglaze cotton by Brigance of Sportsmaker, straw hat by John Frederics Charmer, photo by Richard Rutledge, Vogue, January 1, 1958

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