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January 11, 2026

Erwin Blumenfeld: The Surrealist Visionary of Fashion Photography

Erwin Blumenfeld (1897–1969) was a German-American photographer who fundamentally redefined the aesthetics of fashion and beauty during the mid-20th century.

Deeply rooted in the Dada and Surrealist movements, Blumenfeld treated the camera not merely as a recording device, but as a laboratory for avant-garde experimentation. During his legendary tenure at Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar, he introduced groundbreaking techniques such as solarization, multiple exposures, color filtration, and extreme cropping to create images that were both eerie and ethereal. His most famous work, the 1950 “Doe Eye” cover for Vogue, remains a masterpiece of minimalism, reducing the human face to its most essential, graphic elements.

Beyond the glamour of high fashion, Blumenfeld’s work was characterized by a lifelong obsession with the female form and a complex psychological depth born from his experiences surviving two World Wars. Today, he is remembered as a pioneer who bridged the gap between commercial photography and fine art, proving that a fashion image could be as intellectually challenging as a painting.

Mrs. Schuyler Watts in pink silk chiffon dress and make-up by Germaine Monteil, photo by Erwin Blumenfeld, Harper's Bazaar, January 1942

Woman with camellias, photo by Erwin Blumenfeld, 1943

"Le Poudrier", a study for an advertisement, photo by Erwin Blumenfeld, 1944

Goddess of New York, photo by by Erwin Blumenfeld, 1944

Model in raincoat, photo by Erwin Blumenfeld, 1944

Model wearing bracelet of diamonds and sapphires by Cartier, photo by Erwin Blumenfeld, Vogue, 1944

Vogue's November 1, 1944 cover by Erwin Blumenfeld, shows model Adrian Storms wearing aquamarine and diamond earrings from Tiffany's

"Salute to Freedom", publicity for Bianchini Ferier (textile company), photo by Erwin Blumenfeld, Harper's Bazaar, August 1945

Model wearing a tan crocheted casque by Hattie Carnegie, photo by Erwin Blumenfeld, Vogue, 1945

Untitled, Tedi Thurman is the model, photo by Erwin Blumenfeld, New York, 1945

Carmen Dell' Orefice in glittering silk tulle gown made to order by Jay Thorpe, photo by Erwin Blumenfeld, Vogue, September 15, 1946

Model in silver, heavy satin evening dress with a framing décolletage, shaped bodice and panniered stiff skirt from Bergdorf Goodman, photo by Erwin Blumenfeld, Vogue, September 1, 1946

Swimwear fashions, photo by Erwin Blumenfeld, Vogue, May 1946

Tedi Thurman in sweeping dinner dress in a rich illuminated green of Ducharne rayon damask from Henri Bendel, photo by Erwin Blumenfeld, Vogue, September 1, 1946

Untitled, photo by Erwin Blumenfeld, New York, 1946

"What Looks New", photo by Erwin Blumenfeld, New York, 1947

Model in profile-collared yellow silk faille coat lined in plae-blue duchesse satin by Charles James, photo by Erwin Blumenfeld, Vogue, August 1, 1947

Pat Blake in hat, gloves and jewelry, photo by Erwin Blumenfeld, New York, 1947

Fashion shot by Erwin Blumenfeld, circa 1948

Leslie Peterson by Erwin Blumenfeld, New York, 1948

Ricki VanDusen with three different hair tints by Roux, coiffures are by Michel, the necklace and pin are by Schlumberger, photo by Erwin Blumenfeld, Vogue, April 1, 1948

Carmen Dell' Orefice in suit of subtle colored dotted wool jersey by Jane Derby, silverblu mink scarf by Fredrica, sidelong veiled hat by Chanda, photo by Erwin Blumenfeld, Vogue, February 1, 1949

Evelyn Tripp in Christian Dior's "Sargent Dress", photo by Erwin Blumenfeld, American Vogue, New York, November 1, 1949

Katherine Cassidy in pink Swiss organdie gown adorned with white eyelet embroidery by Mainbocher, photo by Erwin Blumenfeld, Vogue, April 15, 1949

Ruth Knowles, photo by Erwin Blumenfled used for cover of Vogue, May 1, 1949

Doe Eye of Jean Patchett, photo by Erwin Blumenfeld, cover for Vogue, January 1950

"Blue Veil", photo by Erwin Blumenfeld, New York, 1951

Untitled, photo by Erwin Blumenfeld, New York, 1952.

Untitled, photo by Erwin Blumenfeld, New York, 1952

"Revolving" by Erwin Blumenfeld, New York, 1953

Model in girdle by Lily of France, organdy dress by Dior, stockings by Modeltex, sandals by Valley, photo by Erwin Blumenfeld, Vogue US, February 15, 1953

Nancy Berg wearing silk taffeta dress by Traina-Norell, photo by Erwin Blumenfeld used as Vogue cover, May 1953

Untitled, photo by Erwin Blumenfeld, New York, circa 1955

Untitled, photo by Erwin Blumenfeld, New York, circa 1955

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