Lucien Lelong: The Savior of Parisian Haute Couture

Lucien Lelong (1889–1958) was a visionary French couturier and a monumental figure in the history of haute couture, best known for his impeccable craftsmanship and his heroic leadership during World War II.

As the president of the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne during the Nazi occupation of France, Lelong famously defied the German authorities’ attempt to move the entire Parisian fashion industry to Berlin, arguing that “it is in Paris that couture is created, or it is nowhere.” Beyond his diplomacy, he was a pioneer in business, being one of the first designers to create a successful line of luxury perfumes and a high-end ready-to-wear (prêt-à-porter) collection, which democratized fashion without sacrificing elegance.

While Lelong was not the primary illustrator of his house, he acted as a brilliant artistic director who mentored legendary designers like Christian Dior, Pierre Balmain, and Hubert de Givenchy, forever cementing his influence on the “New Look” and the future of global fashion.

Model wearing Rose Descat hat, and beaver-trimmed coat and scarf, both by Lucien Lelong, photo by George Hoyningen-Huene, 1932

Natalie Paley modelling for husband, designer Lucien Lelong, photo by Horst, French Vogue studio, Paris, 1934

Cora Hemmet in evening gown by Lucien Lelong, jewelry by Cartier, photo by Horst P. Horst, 1935

Louise Sheldon in evening gown by Lucien Lelong, photo by Horst P. Horst, 1936

Princess Nathalie Paley wearing a Persian lamb bolero, a three-quarter-length wool dress by Lucien Lelong, and a striped hat by Reboux, photo by André Durst, Vogue, December 1936

Cora Van Millingen in dress by Lucien Lelong, photo by Horst P. Horst, 1937

Ludmila Feodoseyevna wearing a navy wool crêpe suit with red arabesque designs on jacket and cuffs by Lelong, hat by Louise Bourbon, gloves by Hermès, bracelet by Boucheron, photo by Horst P. Horst, Vogue, 1937

Madame Buchardt and Lisa Fonnsagrives in evening dresses by Lucien Lelong, photo by Horst P. Horst, 1938

Model wearing long zebra-stripe dress with crossed bodice by Lucien Lelong, jewelry by Bijoux Boucheron, and wide flat hat, photo by André Durst, Vogue, March 1938

Lisa Fonssagrives wearing dress by Lucien Lelong in death-defying pose high atop the Eiffel Tower overlooking the city of Paris, photo by Erwin Blumenfeld, French Vogue, 1939

Lisa Fonssagrives in a white organdie dress appliqued with taffeta ribbon in pink and green checks to stiffen the frail skirt by Lelong at Hattie Carnegie, photo by Horst P. Horst, Vogue, July 1, 1940

Ludmila Feodoseyevna in a dark blue lace dress with sequin scrolls over one shoulder and a sash of turquoise-blue silk jersey, the top is lined with flesh colored chiffon by Lucien Lelong, photo by François Kollar, Harper's Bazaar, June 1940

Model in a beautiful absinthe-green silk jersey dress girded with a gold paillette peplum by Lelong, imported by Bergdorf Goodman, photo by John Rawlings, Vogue, March 15, 1940

Model in a silk jersey dress "Songerie" in cold gray and white with warm copper bands that form a halter by Lucien Lelong at Henri Bendel, photo by George Hoyningen-Huene, Harper's Bazaar, January 1940

Model in dark blue wool skirt with a red wool jacket and dark blue chiffon blouse, the cane covered in the same red as the jacket by Lucien Lelong, photo by Jean Moral, Harper's Bazaar, March 1940

Model in pink tulle evening dress, demure in front and naughtily bare-backed, edged with blue ribbon by Lelong, jewelry by Mauboussin, photo by André Durst, Vogue, March 15, 1940

Model wearing beautiful draped dinner dress in midnight blue wool jersey by Lelong at Henri Bendel, photo by François Kollar, Harper's Bazaar, March 1940

Natalie Paley (Mrs. Lelong) in a Ready-To-Wear adaptation of the Lelong Star suit, gray flannel skirt, rust jacket and shirt at Hattie Carnegie, Harper's Bazaar, April 1940

Model in beige wool dress with deep armholes and black accents by Lucien Lelong, photo by Paschkoff, Paris, Vogue, May 1, 1945

Barbara Cushing Mortimer in a Goya-inspired short evening dress of beaded net over white satin and tulle-shawled bodice by Lucien Lelong, photo by John Rawlings, Louvre, Paris, Vogue, October 15, 1946

Barbara Cushing Mortimer in beige wool wrapped greatcoat by Lucien Lelong, photo by John Rawlings, Paris, Vogue, October 15, 1946

Dorian Leigh in bold, boxed Boulevardier by Lelong, translated here in chalk-striped gabardine by Weiner for Russek's, photo by Karen Radkai, Vogue, October 15, 1946

Grecian-inspired draped evening gown by Lucien Lelong, photo by Willy Maywald, 1946

Model in beautiful gown called "Faience" of white satin appliquéd with blue lace leaves and flowers and spotted strategically with blue beads by Lucien Lelong, photo by Maurice Tabard, Harper's Bazaar, June 1946

Model in evening gown of layers of pink tulle rising in front and lower in back, bodice is of pink velvet, by Lucien Lelong, photo by Philippe Pottier, 1946

Model in lovely dotted green silk dress with a deep neckline and folded back revers by Lucien Lelong, photo by Horst P. Horst, Vogue, April 1, 1946

Mrs. Stanley Mortimer in Watteau-style gray faille mantle lined in black velvet with a folded back sealskin collar by Lelong, for the first time, a color photograph transmitted by radio, photo by John Rawlings, Vogue, October 1, 1946

Marilyn Ambrose in a Miron gabardine, side-buttoned suit adapted from a Lelong design by Weiner Originals, hat by peter Bondi, Vogue, January 15, 1947

Model in dark ruby satin cocktail dress by Lucien Lelong, photo by Philippe Pottier, 1948

Régine Debrise in black brief coat with waist-deep armholes deeply indented by the belt by Lucien Lelong, shiny straw beret by Maud Roser, photo by Arik Nepo, Vogue, April 1, 1948

Unknown model in fashion by Lucien Lelong, photo by Clifford Coffin, The Louvre, Paris, February 1948