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October 18, 2025

Rico Puhlmann: The Photographer of Post-War Chic

Rico Puhlmann (1934–1996) was a highly influential German fashion photographer and illustrator who shaped the aesthetic of the industry from the post-war era to the 1990s.

Initially training as a graphic designer in Berlin, Puhlmann brought an astute understanding of composition and color to his photography, helping to define the early look of “Berliner Chic.” After moving to New York in the 1970s, he rose to international prominence, serving as the chief photographer for Harper’s Bazaar for over two decades and regularly contributing to magazines like Vogue and GQ.

His signature style was a blend of intimate glamour and lyrical realism, where he preferred to photograph high fashion and celebrity portraits—such as those of Cindy Crawford and Isabella Rossellini—in natural, relatable settings rather than dramatic studios, making elegance look effortless.

Puhlmann’s prolific and celebrated career was tragically cut short in the TWA Flight 800 crash in 1996, but his legacy endures as a master who successfully transitioned fashion photography into the modern era. These glamorous photos are part of the work where Rico Puhlmann captured fashion portraits of iconic models across the 1960s.

Denise Sarrault is wearing evening gown by Schwichtenberg, Berlin, photo by Rico Puhlmann, published in Stern, October 1960

Fashion photo by Rico Puhlmann, Berlin, 1960

Ina Balke in coat by Gehringer & Glupp in front of Brandenburg Gate, Berlin, photographed by Rico Puhlmann for Beyer Moden, Spring/Summer 1960

Lissy Scharper wearing a cocktail dress by Staebe-Seger, New York, photographed by Rico Puhlmann for Stern, July 1960

Lissy Scharper, photo by Rico Puhlmann, New York, 1960

Marie Luise Steinbauer in evening gown by Staebe-Seger, photo by Rico Puhlmann in Times Square, New York, Stern magazine, July 1960

Fashion photo by Rico Puhlmann, Florence, published in Elegante Welt, 1961

Fur coat by Pelzhaus Kunze, photo by Puhlmann for Stern magazine, October 1961

Gitta Schilling in cocktail suit by Gehringer & Glupp, Berlin, photo by Rico Puhlmann, published in Constanze Mode, Fall/Winter 1961/62

Gitta Schilling in mink jacket by Pelzhaus Kuntze, photo by Rico Puhlmann, published in the Winter catalog of Pelzhaus Kuntze, 1961/62

Model in Marc Bohan for Christian Dior, Fall/Winter 1961-62 Collection, suit called "Boulevard", photo by Rico Puhlman for Film und Frau, Paris, 1961

Model wearing cocktail ensemble by Gehringer & Glupp, Berlin, photo by Rico Puhlmann, published in Constanze Mode, Fall/Winter 1961/62

Gitta Schilling , Place de l'Opera, Paris, photo by Rico Puhlmann for Stern magazine, March 1962

Model wearing plaid wool coat by Velisch, photo by Rico Puhlmann, Paris, 1962

Models wearing dresses and triangular capes by Pierre Cardin, photo by Rico Puhlmann, Paris, Stern magazine, March 1962

The Studio in Paris, photo by Rico Puhlmann, 1962

Wilhelmina, New York, photographed by Rico Puhlmann for Stern magazine, 1962

Bettina Lauer in dress by Lauer-Boehlendorff, photo by Rico Puhlmann for Constanze Mode, Berlin, Spring/Summer 1963

Bettina Lauer in evening dress by Yves Saint Laurent, photo by Rico Puhlmann, published in Stern, March 3, 1963

Bettina Lauer photographed by Rico Puhlmann along the Seine for Stern, March 1963

Gloria Friedrich in suit by Capucci on the balcony of Helena Rubestein's house in Paris, photographed by Rico Puhlmann for Stern magazine, March 1963

Gloria Friedrich wearing suit by Pierre Balmain, photo by Rico Puhlmann high on the rooftops of Paris for Stern magazine, March 1963

Marola Witt (left) and Katherine Pastrie (right) in Egypt, photographed by Rico Puhlmann for Constanze Mode, Spring/Summer 1964

Marola Witt, Katherine Pastrie and model at the swimming pool on the cruise ship "Hanseatic", photo by Rico Puhlmann, published in Constanze Mode, Spring/Summer 1964

Simone D'Aillencourt in winter white coat by Galitzine, photo by Rico Puhlmann, published in Annabelle, September 1964

Simone D'Aillencourt wearing dress by de Barentzen-Gilles, photo by Rico Puhlmann, published in Annabelle, September 1964

Sophy Derly, photo by Rico Puhlmann, Berlin, 1964

Brigitte Bauer, photo by Rico Puhlmann, Berlin, published in Stern magazine, 1965

Brigitte Bauer in evening ensemble by Uli Richter, photo by Rico Puhlmann, Berlin, 1966

Models in black and white suits, photographed by Rico Puhlmann for Petra, July 1966

Nadja Tiller, photo by Rico Puhlmann,published in Constanze Mode, September 1966

Gloria Friedrich, photo by Rico Puhlmann, Berlin, published in Constanze Mode, September 1968

Gloria Friedrich, photo by Rico Puhlmann, March 1968

Gloria Friedrich, photo by Rico Puhlmann, published in Berlin Fashion Export Journal, 1968-69

Gloria Friedrich, photo by Rico Puhlmann, published in Berlin Fashion Export Journal, 1968/69

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