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November 21, 2024

Roger Vivier: One of the Greatest Shoe Designer of the 20th Century

Roger Vivier (1907–1998) was a renowned French luxury footwear designer, often referred to as the “frivolous shoe designer” or “the architect of shoes.” He is credited with creating some of the most iconic and elegant shoe styles of the 20th century, and best known for his innovative approach to footwear, blending art, architecture, and fashion in his designs.

Shoe designs by Roger Vivier in the 1950s and ’60s

One of his most famous contributions is the stiletto heel, which Vivier introduced in the 1950s, revolutionizing the high-heeled shoe. He also designed the famous “Pilgrim” pump for Christian Dior in the late 1950s, a style that became synonymous with elegance and sophistication.

Roger Vivier’s shoes are characterized by their combination of high-quality materials, meticulous craftsmanship, and sophisticated yet daring designs. His legacy lives on in the Roger Vivier brand, which continues to produce luxury footwear and accessories, often featuring signature elements like the iconic “buckle” detail.

The Roger Vivier brand, which has become synonymous with refined and stylish footwear, was acquired by the Italian fashion conglomerate Tod’s in the 2000s, but it continues to retain its distinctive French heritage and craftsmanship. Here below are some of shoe designs by Roger Vivier in the 1950s and 1960s.

A court shoe of printed fabric, graced by a flat bow, designed by Roger Vivier for Christian Dior, circa 1952

A pure line, clearing the arch of the foot, this blond satin slipper designed by Roger Vivier for Christian Dior, offers a narrow and elongated silhouette, a slightly draped effect is emphasized by quilting, photo by Georges Saad, 1954

Three beautiful creations from Roger Vivier inspired by The Sun King, photo by André Gremela, Harper's Bazaar, November 1957

The new square-point toed shoes designed by Roger Vivier for Christian Dior, photo by William Klein, Vogue, September 15, 1958

"Gobelins" creation by Roger Vivier for Christian Dior, 1959

"Regine" shoes by Roger Vivier for Christian Dior, 1959

Red silk satin opera pump with two rosebuds on the side and gray calfskin with scooped out top and black heel made to order by Roger Vivier, photo by Attie at Le Bourget airport, Vogue, August 1, 1959

Shades of pink on white silk print stilettos with pointed tip, the heels are slightly arched by Roger Vivier for Dior, photo by Philippe Pottier, 1959

Dorothea McGowan is admiring a pale satin shoe for evening and a small-heeled suit shoe of brown alligator both by Roger Vivier for Christian Dior, photo by William Klein, Vogue, September 15, 1960

Presentation of the pump models created by Roger Vivier for Christian Dior, Paris, June 3, 1960

A vivid pink satin shoe with butterfly bows of organza by Roger Vivier, photo by Don Pepe, Harper's Bazaar UK, May 1961

Blue and tartan shoe with Louis XV heel, Roger Vivier creation for Christian Dior, Paris, July 26, 1961

Elaborate evening bootie designed by Roger Vivier for Dior is made of lace encrusted with pearls and paillettes, photo by Paul Schutzer, September 1961

Embroidered pumps for the evening by Roger Vivier for Christian Dior, photo Philippe Pottier, L'Officiel, December 1961

Grey and black wool Dutch moccasin with Louis XV heel, Roger Vivier creation for Christian Dior, Paris, July 26, 1961

Grey box sports pump by Roger Vivier for Christian Dior, Paris, July 26, 1961

Leopard coat and matching lace-up booties (booties by Roger Vivier for Dior) by Dior, photo by Paul Schutzer, 1961

Red satin shoes by Roger Vivier for Christian Dior, photo by Hubert, 1961

Roger Vivier plaid ankle boots, photo by Irving Penn, Vogue US, September 1, 1961

The beautiful lace and embroidered shoe is designed by Roger Vivier for the house of Dior, photo by Paul Schutzer for Life magazine, September 1961

Evening shoe designed by Roger Vivier, for Princess Soraya of Iran, 1962

Roger Vivier for Dior, Charles Jourdan, Durer, and Seducta, photo by Philippe Pottier, 1962

At left, a claret alligator shoe with square toe and brass buckle, at right a white alligator pump called the Vivier pump for the V in its throat, both by Roger Vivier, photo by Bert Stern, Vogue, March 1, 1963

Wine-red satin pump bow-tied through tiny eyelets circled in brilliants, the heel curved like a comma by Roger Vivier, photo by Guy Bourdin, Vogue, November 15, 1963

Wine-red suéde pump for day strapped and buckled and calfskin with nailheads on the toe and gold-buttoned strap, both by Roger Vivier, photo by Guy Bourdin, Vogue, November 15, 1963

Pump in purple satin with rhinestone eyelet, created by Roger Vivier expressly for Princess Soraya of Iran, 1964

Pink satin and striped taffeta evening shoes designed by Roger Vivier for Christian Dior, photo by Jean Louis Guégan, 1965

Model holding a crystal and orange plastic pair of boots with a 2cm heel, by Roger Vivier, Paris, April 1966

Fifteenth century style gilt embroidered and modern harlequin beaded shoes by Roger Vivier, 1967

A white alligator-grained Corfam shoe, square-toed with a silver-ringed ellipse by Roger Vivier, tights by Schiaparelli, photo by Chris von Wangenheim, Harper's Bazaar, March 1968

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