In the years following World War II, Condé Nast had a grand photography studio in the Graybar Building in midtown Manhattan. It was stocked with the latest equipment, and a stable of photographers and assistants cranking out fashion spreads, portraits, and product still lifes. One of those studio photographers, Richard Rutledge, is relatively unknown to us today, but for a 15-year period following the war he was one of the most frequently published photographers in
Vogue,
Glamour, and
House & Garden.
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Fashion photography by Richard Rutledge in the 1950s |
Rutledge, who died in Paris one week prior to his 62nd birthday, in the autumn of 1985, might have been called a ‘utility player’ had he been a baseball player instead of a photographer. He was comfortable shooting in black and white or color; in the studio or outdoors; with SLR or 8×10 plate; fashion, portraits, travel, still life—it was all the same to him. In his own words, he found darkroom work ‘a chore’, what he liked best were the results.
While Rutledge’s black-and-white work is accomplished, his color work stands above. The color films used during Rutledge’s day have an incredible depth that, when combined with his skillful compositions, produce shockingly modern results. He preferred animated and natural expressions on models, and often used playful banter to coax the person from behind the model’s façade. He also seems to have had a fondness for red; the color is incorporated into nearly every shot.
These stunning color photos are part of his work that Richard Rutledge took portraits of classic beauties in the 1950s.
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Dovima wearing a brown flannel suit with a red velvet collar, matching felt hat with grosgrain band of red and blue silk twill scarf, 1951 |
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Model wearing a brown and white window pane plaid flannel shirt and a brown wool twill skirt, 1951 |
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Evelyn Tripp wearing a necklace of reversed seed-cowl pearls, 1952 |
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Model is wearing a sheer pink shirtwaist blouse and a bell-shaped skirt by Nelly de Grab, 1952 |
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Model is wearing a slim tweed coat, a matching skirt with a single walking pleat, and wool jersey blouse with neckline tie, matching gloves and raspberry cloche hat, 1952 |
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Model is wearing a wool jersey blouse and a slim pleated skirt, 1952 |
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Model is wearing a wool jersey blouse that ties at the neck, a wool jersey cardigan with black knit ribbing, and a slim pleated skirt in matching wool jersey, 1952 |
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Model is wearing a wool jersey cardigan with dolman sleeves worn with a skirt of gathered jersey above a tight under-sheath of taffeta, 1952 |
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Model is wearing s sleeveless black jersey evening blouse and tulle dancing skirt above a taffeta underskirt, 1952 |
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Model with dog, Glamour, August 1952 |
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Suzy Parker, 1952 |
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Model wearing a floral dressing gown, 1953 |
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Evelyn Tripp wearing a pale yellow summer party dress by Kane, with matching mules by Valley, 1954 |
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Mary Jane Russell and Cherry Nelms wearing shade-brimmed hats both of painted silk picturing flowers and butterflies, ringed with grosgrain ribbon, 1954 |
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Nina de Voogt & Patsy Shally, 1954 |
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Anne St Marie, 1955 |
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Model is wearing a silk shantung shirt dress, printed with a blur of red and pink carnations, 1955 |
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Model wearing bathing cap, Vogue, June 1956 |
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Outfit all by Greta Paltry, 1956 |
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Joanna McCormick, 1957 |
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Two models in Rose Marie Reid swimsuits, 1957 |
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A model wearing Clairol hair dye, 1958 |
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Model wearing a red one-piece swimsuit, 1958 |
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Models legs are running in red glacé lizard shoes by Fleming-Joffe, 1958 |
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A woman buried in sand at a beach, Glamour, May 1959 |
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Model is wearing a two piece calico print swimsuit with terry cloth cardy by Cabana, 1959 |
(Photo © Richard Rutledge)
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