Jean Louis (1907–1997) was a legendary French-born American costume designer who became one of the most influential figures in Hollywood during the Golden Age. Born Jean Louis Berthault in Paris, he moved to the United States and eventually became head designer at Columbia Pictures.
Renowned for his exquisite craftsmanship and elegant sense of style, Louis created some of the most iconic gowns in film history, including the famous strapless black satin dress worn by Rita Hayworth in Gilda (1946) and the dazzling wardrobe for Marlene Dietrich’s stage performances.
Jean Louis won an Academy Award for Best Costume Design for The Solid Gold Cadillac (1956) and received 13 Oscar nominations throughout his career. His timeless, sophisticated designs helped define the glamour of mid-20th century Hollywood.
These elegant vintage photos capture the timeless sophistication, impeccable craftsmanship, and enduring glamour of Jean Louis, one of the most influential and celebrated costume designers of Hollywood’s Golden Age.
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| Marilyn Monroe wore this Jean Louis gown in Columbia's low budget film "Ladies of the Chorus", it had a heavily embellished bodice and sheer cutout center over a skirt of flowing chiffon, April 1948 |
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| Rita Hayworth in gown by Jean Louis for the film "The Lady from Shanghai", photo by Robert Coburn, 1947 |
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| Marlene Dietrich wearing beaded gown by Jean Louis, photo by John Engstead, 1955 |
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| Marilyn Monroe in black crepe cocktail dress with irregular neckline threaded with jersey band by Jean Louis for the film "The Misfits", 1961 |
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| Dorothea McGowan in sinuous, spiralling, plum chiffon gown over silk crêpe, floated free at the back, by Jean Louis, Pagoda earrings, gloves by Aris, coiffure by Kenneth Batelle, photo by Bert Stern, Vogue, November 1, 1962 |
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| Marilyn Monroe in floral print backless dress in jersey by Jean Louis for the film "Something's Got to Give", 1962 |
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| Monique Chevalier in Jasmine EMBA white mink coat-dress, white satin tie and zipped closing in front, by Jean Louis for Alixandre, diamond and sapphire drop earrings by Van Cleef & Arpels, photo by Irving Penn, Vogue, October 1, 1963 |
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| Wilhelmina in a straight and narrow cape of brown, taupe and white wool over white wool jersey dress by Jean Louis, turban by Halston, silk-lined gloves by Shalimar, photo by Irving Penn, Vogue, February 15, 1963 |
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| Brigitte Bauer in charming top of bright pink lace over white cotton batiste, the skirt is densely ribbed and bubbled cotton, vibrant green ribbon at the waist, by Jean Louis, coiffure by Kenneth, photo by Bert Stern, Vogue, Feb. 1, 1964 |
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| Brigitte Bauer in EMBA blue-beige mink jacket, high-waisted with short sleeves by Jean Louis for Alixandre, hat by Dior-New York, magnificent marquise diamond at 43.67 carats by Harry Winston, photo by Bert Stern, Vogue, February 1, 1964 |
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| Tania Mallet in black cotton batiste lace blouse worn with a brillian green embossed cotton skirt, sashed in heavy jeweled fuschia silk by Jean Louis, jeweled pin by Brania, coiffure by Kenneth, photo by Bert Stern, Vogue, February 1, 1964 |
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| Mirella Petteni in biased reversible coat and culottes of red, white and navy wool plaid over white silk crêpe shirt, worn with navy chiffon cap, all by Jean Louis, photo by Irving Penn, Vogue, February 15, 1965 |
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| Model in beautiful pink and green swirling silk chiffon dress over silk by Jean Louis, photo by Peter Fink, Harper's Bazaar, March 1965 |
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| Vivien Leigh in ostrich feather coat by Jean Louis, photo by Peter Deal, Harper's Bazaar UK, April 1965 |
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| Benedetta Barzini in pyjamas of glistening chiffon-lamé in Persian-garden colors, caught in a golden belt fanning wide over the legs by Jean Louis, shoes by Fiorentina, photo by Richard Avedon, Vogue, August 15, 1966 |
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| Cheryl Tiegs in a swingy French silk dress designed by Jean Louis, photo by John Engstead, Vogue, August 15, 1967 |
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| Ann Turkel (here with Ronald Winston) wearing a full-length white mink coat with white fox sleeves by Jean Louis, hat by Adolfo, photo by Didier Dorot, Harper's Bazaar, November 1968 |
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| Berkley Johnson in evening pajamas in sheer frosty white patterned in silver beads, transparent top attached to pants, jacket with white fox cuffs, by Jean Louis, photo by Richard Avedon, Vogue, November 15, 1968 |
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| Naomi Sims in Fouke-dyed black seal fur kimono coat with white mink along the edges and tied with white leather belt by Jean Louis, shoes by Andrew Geller, photo by Alexis Waldeck, Vogue, September 15, 1968 |
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| Pat McGuire in great houndstooth checked tweed skirt, black wool jersey bodice and matching scarf by Jean Louis, cap by Mr. John, photo by Neal Barr, Harper's Bazaar, September 1968 |
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| Paula Prentiss wearing white silk dress with crossed halter by Jean Louis, matching bejeweled belt and earrings by Jean Louis, rings by Marvella and K.J.L., coiffure by Ara Gallant, photo by Bert Stern, Vogue, 1968 |
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