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April 20, 2024

Pablo Manzoni: One of Fashion’s First Superstar Makeup Artists

Born 1939 as Count Paolo Michaelangelo Zappi-Manzoni di Giovecca in Bologna, Italian make-up artist Pablo Manzoni persuaded the Elizabeth Arden salon in Rome to employ him at the age of 17, despite his lack of experience. Whilst there, he worked with clients such as Sophia Loren, for whom he used his trademark eyebrow-bleaching technique to enhance her eyes. Another early Manzoni trademark was the use of false eyelashes.

Classic beauties were made up by Pablo Manzoni in the 1960s

In 1965, his eye-makeup techniques were so influential that he was awarded the Coty Award in recognition for launching a worldwide style. As a leader in the field of fashionable, elaborate eye-makeup, Pablo was extremely popular with fashion editors and society women during the 1960s. Manzoni stated in 1966 that the jewel-studded or flower-decorated eyes he created for the fashion press were intended to inspire the reader, rather than to be exactly copied. Despite this, he had clients asking him to reproduce the designs for actual wear. In 2011, Manzoni expanded on this, explaining that the “festive eyes” he created for Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar were intended for shock value and publicity purposes, but that when at work he created subtle make-up for clients.

In 1979, Manzoni left Elizabeth Arden to embark upon a solo career, for which he reclaimed his surname. By 1985, as well as dealing with private clients, Manzoni was working as a make-up consultant for Neiman Marcus. In 1990, he was Creative Director for the La Prairie cosmetics line.

Manzoni died from complications from back surgery in 2022, at the age of 82. These stunning photos captured portraits of classic beauties who were made up by Pablo Manzoni in the 1960s.

Benedetta Barzini in a pumpkin cashmere sweater, long with big cowl collar by Braemar, earrings by Kramer, coiffure by Kenneth, make-up by Pablo of Elizabeth Arden, photo by Irving Penn, Vogue, August 1, 1964

Benedetta Barzini wearing Lace-Shadowed Eye, with Brussels lace, by Pablo for Elizabeth Arden, and cap by Halston, photo by Bert Stern, Vogue, 1964

Jean Shrimpton's astonishing eyes were done with the longest eyelashes yet by Pablo of Elizabeth Arden, photo by Melvin Sokolsky, Harper's Bazaar, July 1964

Jennifer O'Neill is wearing a sea-blue veil and cap glistening with sequins and beads by Lilly Daché, gem-laden eye make-up by Pablo of Elizabeth Arden, photo by James Moore, Harper's Bazaar, December 1964

Tilly Tizzani holding an enamel-spotted gold tiger with emerald eyes and black and white enameled tiger with diamonds and emerald eyes, make-up by Pablo of Elizabeth Arden Salon-Rome, photo by Bert Stern, Vogue, March 15, 1964

Veronica Hamel's waterproof eye make-up by Pablo of elizabeth Arden, photo by Melvin Sokolsky, Harper's Bazaar, July 1964

Benedetta Barzini as "Autumn", make-up by Pablo and coiffure festooned with pheasant feathers by Imo, both of Elizabeth Arden, photo by Bert Stern, Vogue, January 1, 1965

Birgitta af Klercker in dress of coal blue wool with a bodice of coq feathers by Trigere, fantasy hair dressing and make-up by Pablo of Elizabeth Arden, photo by Gene Laurents, Vogue, October 1, 1965

Brigitte Bauer as "Summer", make-up and hair by Pablo and Imo of Elizabeth Arden, photo by Bert Stern, Vogue, January 1, 1965

Brigitte Bauer in terry-cloth robe and towel by Boussac at Serendipity, make-up by Pablo of Elizabeth Arden, bracelets by Castlecliff, photo by Irving Penn, Vogue, July 1, 1965

Jean Shrimpton, make-up by Pablo for Elizabeth Arden, depicting the season Spring, photo by Bert Stern, Vogue, 1965

Model's brilliants eye designs by creative make-up artist, Pablo of Elizabeth Arden, photo by Gene Laurents, Vogue, October 1, 1965

Veronica Hamel as "Winter", make-up by Pablo of Elizabeth Arden and coiffure by Imo of Arden, jewelry by KJL, photo by Bert Stern, Vogue, January 1, 1965

Virna Lisi wearing make-up by Pablo for Elizabeth Arden, photo by Irving Penn, Vogue, April 1, 1965

Birgitta af Klercker depicts the season of Autumn in this photo by Irving Penn, Vogue, December 1, 1966

Brigitte Bauer wearing broad dog collar of colored mirrors by Trifari, makeup by Pablo of Elizabeth Arden, photo by Bert Stern, Vogue, 1966

Isa Stoppi depicted here as Spring, designed by Pablo of Elizabeth Arden, photo by Irving Penn, Vogue, December 1, 1966

Isa Stoppi, jewelry by Bvlgari, make-up by Pablo for Elizabeth Arden, photo by Gian Paola Barbieri, Linea Italia, Autumn 1966

Jill Kennington is wearing "The Acanthine Eye" created by Pablo of Elizabeth Arden with subtle mixture of Elizabeth Arden's Cardo, White and Sun Gold eye shadow with Black Cake Eyeliner, Harper's Bazaar UK, January 1966

Model's beautiful romantic look is created by influential face-designer Pablo of Elizabeth Arden, photo by Gene Laurents, Vogue, March 15, 1966

Veruschka seen here as Summer, designed by Pablo of Elizabeth Arden, photo by Irving Penn, Vogue, December 1, 1966

Wilhelmina personified as Winter, designed by Pablo of Elizabeth Arden, photo by Irving Penn, Vogue, December 1, 1966

Isa Stoppi's "Northern Lights" make-up by Pablo of Elizabeth Arden, earrings by Jane Bolles, sequined dress by Anne Fogarty, photo by Gianni Penati, Vogue, September 15, 1967

Samantha Jones is wearing a gleaming gold face and gold-dusted hair by make-up artist Pablo of Elizabeth Arden, solid plastic necklace by Mary Carmen, photo by Irving Penn, Vogue, April 1, 1967

Benedetta Barzini is wearing Bulgari enameled snake bracelet, necklace and hair ornament, make-up by Pablo at Elizabeth Arden, photo by Gian Paolo Barbieri, Rome, 1968

Marina Schiano's make-up is by Pablo of Elizabeth Arden, brushed gilt chains from Bergère at Bonwit Teller, photo by Gene Laurents, Vogue, March 1, 1968

Benedetta Barzini is wearing a cabochon collier of dazzling amethysts, emeralds, turquoises in a sapphire and diamond cascade set in gold by Bulgari, makeup by Pablo of Elizabeth Arden, photo by Gian Paolo Barbieri, Vogue, 1968

Model's makeup was created by Pablo of Elizabeth Arden, headdress by Menichetti, photo by Hiro, Harper's Bazaar, April 1968

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