Sunday, June 12, 2016

Extraordinary Color Fashion Photography Taken During the 1940s by John Rawlings

John Rawlings (1912-1970) was a mid-20th-century American modernist photographer who worked for Condé Nast for 30 years. He grew up in Ohio before moving to New York in the early 1930s, and was hired by Condé Nast in 1936 as an assistant to Horst P. Horst and George Platt Lynes during their time at Vogue. Rawlings was promptly sent to England in 1938 to set up an in-house photography studio at British Vogue.

He shot more than 200 Vogue and Glamour magazine covers, as well as working on commercial print and television ads, portraits, and nudes. Rawlings returned to America in 1940, and by the end of the decade was experimenting with light, using a combination of reflective materials with natural and artificial light.

The 1940s and 1950s were important decades in American fashion that photographers like Rawlings helped create and document. His iconic images capture the less theatrical and pared-down American aesthetic perfectly. Charles Dare Scheips Jr., former director of the Condé Nast archive, has said, “Rawlings was certainly the first major Condé Nast photographer to demonstrate a truly American eye.”

ca. 1940 --- Standing model in red wool slack suit emblazoned with eagle figure, with white shirt and white turban, surrounded by mythological illustrations.

ca. 1943 --- Model on striped couch wearing a deep green wide-neck knit dress by Hattie Carnegie, jewelry from Seaman Schepps.

ca. 1943 --- Model wearing double-breasted mustard-color tweed coat from Henri Bendel.

ca. 1943 --- Model wearing ocean-blue Shetland tweed suit from Hattie Carnegie.

ca. 1943 --- Model wearing red wool belted trench coat lined in black rabbit from Traina-Norell.

ca. 1943, New York, New York, USA --- Model standing at Ann Delafield's health bar in the Richard Hudnut Salon wearing a Forstmann tweed and corduroy suit.

ca. 1943 --- Model standing behind a model house by architect Harwell Hamilton Harris wearing a Vogue pattern of wool jersey by Heller.

ca. 1944 --- Model wearing Vera Maxwell's camel-colored back-buttoned suit.

ca. 1944 --- Model wearing gray officer's type coat of Hockanum wool.

ca. 1944 --- Model wearing double-breasted day-night coat with white buttons of Forstmann wool.

ca. 1944 --- Model wearing button-front 'dress coat' of tan wool gabardine, a Vogue pattern.

ca. 1947 --- Seated model wearing blue gingham dress, red gingham scarf, and red kid shoes.

ca. 1947 --- Model wearing green wool jersey sweater and Polaroid sunglasses, smoking cigarette.

ca. 1947 --- Seated model wearing an ice-yellow and heat-yellow stretch dress.

ca. 1947 --- Model carrying yellow and black duck duffel bags.

ca. 1947 --- Standing model wearing blue chambray dress and chambray bolero.

ca. 1947 --- Model wearing ermine beret and ascot, worsted broadcloth suit with sculptured jacket and longer skirt, and Ireland gloves, standing in front of Asian mural.

ca. 1947 --- Model wearing pinch-waisted jacket, rippling longer in back, of blond French velveteen ribbed with mink, and chocolate wool skirt, surrounded by Asian art.

ca. 1947 --- Seated model before mural, wearing two-texture, gray French velveteen with polished black wool suit, made of a short-shouldered jacket and plumb-line skirt, with accessories; plumed velvet toque, mink stole, white gauntlets, and jewelled earrings.

ca. 1945 --- Two models wearing furs, at left of Royal Pastel skins, at right of Quebec Crested skins by Ritter.

ca. 1943 --- Head view of model, Susann Shaw, standing behind a clear glass Antipodes Globe, mounted on a black pedestal, sky blue background; photographed at Museum of Modern Art.

ca. 1943 --- Model Susann Shaw's head, with a round, azimuthal map in background, consisting of blue sky, clouds and the names of the cities, photographed at Museum of Modern Art.

ca. 1944 --- Model wearing camel-beige belted striped dress.

ca. 1941 --- Model wearing gala dress in white slipper-satin, holding scroll with weathervane-like fixture.

ca. 1944 --- Model wearing gray wool suit trimmed in red by Foxbrownie.

ca. 1942 --- Model wearing purple felt hat, brown tweed suit with stripes, and gloves, leaning out of portal.

ca. 1942 --- Model wearing wool jersey dress, red wool overcoat with leopard-stencilled lapin lining, and chechia.

ca. 1941 --- Mrs. Stanley Grafton Mortimer, Jr., later known as Babe Paley, wearing drop-shouldered blue wool dress and hat, and yellow crocheting and bag, with paintings in background.

ca. 1943 --- Model near pool wearing cotton blossom pink supper dress from Bonwit Teller.

ca. 1943 --- Spanish dancers Argentinita and Pilar Lopez, with a 'pipes-of-Pan' player.

ca. 1946 --- Model wearing copper-colored square-shoulder suit, fitted at the waist, of wool gabardine.

ca. 1946 --- Model wearing navy pleated skirt together with blue-and-white checked jacket from B.H.Wragge.

ca. 1946 --- Model wearing off-white cashmere and wool stole over coral red dress.

ca. 1943 --- Two models, one wearing a shocking-pink wool coat with set-in belt, the other wearing a emerald-green wool fleece polo coat, standing in front of political and military posters at an exhibit at the Museum of Modern Art in New York City.

ca. 1943 --- Model wearing gray hat, gray wool dress and box jacket, with crisp collar and cuffs, pearly buttons, pigskin gloves and black Morroco leather pouch, with soldiers in background.

ca. 1943 --- Two models by a building, one wearing a gray wool flannel trench coat, the other wearing a navy blue reefer coat of wool chinchilla, its reverse faced in red and a soft, checked wool suit.

ca. 1943 --- Model wearing red pattern dress, beige-green Novo gloves, and a honey-beige beret with netting, standing at desk with open calendar.

ca. 1943 --- Seated model in suit-dress, with accessories hanging from a Vogue sign above her.

ca. 1943 --- Standing model wearing black wool jersey dress, silk crepe harlequin stole, and pink parasol, in front of paintings by Marcel Vertes.

ca. 1947 --- Model at dressing table looking into hand mirror, wearing slimming nylon satin and cotton net undergarment, and gold and diamond jewels.

ca. 1942 --- Model wearing black top and black skirt with pink trim.

ca. 1942 --- Model wearing hat with red trim and red jacket, holding U.S. Savings Bonds and Stamps.

ca. 1942 --- Model wearing brown hat and undyed shantung suit.

ca. 1942 --- Standing model wearing sequin-starred, quilted evening coat.

ca. 1942 --- Model wearing beige wool shirtwaist dress with black sequin buttons, with dyed fox muff, standing in front of painting.

ca. 1942 --- Standing model wearing yellow hat and yellow rayon crepe shirtwaist dress, reflected in mirror.

ca. 1941 --- Two models wearing dresses inspired by the East, one in red and one in green, with shoulders that overhang like eaves, hoods that slip back, and sleeves that slip off like gloves, standing next to a display case with art inside.

ca. 1941, New York, New York, USA --- Standing model in blue satin dress at Prince and Princess Gourielli's shop in New York.

ca. 1941 --- Model wearing yellow-gold tweed suit and tiny hat of brown sealskin.

ca. 1941 --- Standing model wearing tomato-red wool suit with blue buttons and blue lining showing through the slit shoulders and pockets.

ca. 1941 --- Standing model wearing vermilion wool jersey suitdress, tied at the waist, ocelot off-the-face pillbox, black gloves, and shoes.

ca. 1941 --- Model in red dress of rabbit's wool, cut with dirndl lines, standing near bookshelves.

ca. 1941 --- Standing model wearing mustard jacket and fuchsia skirt, with opossum muff.

ca. 1941 --- Model wearing green velveteen suit with baum-marten hat and muff.

ca. 1941 --- Standing model wearing mustard tweed suit with mink addenda.

ca. 1941 --- Standing model wearing brick-red wool jacket, brown skirt, and Matara-brown Alaskan sealskin beret.

ca. 1941 --- Reclining model with accordion, wearing dark wool jersey, pyjamas like ballet tights, brightly colored, with screens in background.

ca. 1942 --- Model wearing small pink silk jersey sailor worn on top of a pill-box-and-snood of navy-blue cord.

ca. 1941 --- Model wearing rosy-red quilted velvet bonnet, dove-gray corduroy greatcoat, hand-stitched gray gloves, and diamond spiral earrings, smoking a cigarette.

ca. 1947 --- Woman modeling white gabardine jacket rounded at the hips and sloping at the back with wide pockets, a navy-blue skirt, a plaid hat with a mesh veil, a matching bag, and gloves.

ca. 1946 --- Model standing in front of an archway in Paris wearing a red coat with oversized pockets by Molyneux, black gloves and a hat.

ca. 1940 --- Two models, one sitting in blue whipcord suit and wool sweater, the other standing in Navy uniform with one pink arm, jersey top, and Celanese sharkskin slacks.

ca. 1946 --- Model wearing hat and blouse draped and slanting over one hip with matching pocketed skirt and matching coat.

ca. 1941 --- Model wearing white clipped velvet turban with red velvet rose.

ca. 1946 --- Mrs. William Patten, wife of an American attache in Paris wearing a Piguet, gray duvetine dress with sequins patterned in the shape of ferns under a  brown cloak-Mrs. Patten is standing outside in front of a ruin with three pillars.

ca. 1941 --- Two models in gowns inspired by ancient Greece, one wearing earth-brown drapery, the other, holding fan, dressed in tiers of blue and brown.

ca. 1941 --- Model wearing dinner-sheath of water-marked silk, with Chinese lines, standing with a fan next to Chinese painting.

ca. 1941 --- Model wearing dark straw sombrero with snood inspired by colors from Mexico.

ca. 1941 --- Model wearing blue silk satin and purple felt turban with a large cluster of pansies.

ca. 1941 --- Standing model wearing green tweed cape over sand silk shantung suit.

ca. 1941 --- Model with hand at chin, wearing cerise and yellow tulips, a green and gold turban, and a gold sweater.

ca. 1941 --- Model in chartreuse felt hat with roses and hummingbirds, purple gloves, and purple veil and ribbons.

ca. 1941 --- Model wearing moire dress with broad turquoise-blue and tulip-red stripes, with long pale blue gloves and bright red shoes, standing in living room.

ca. 1944 --- Model holding pink parasol wearing Traina-Norell's pink belted, button top rayon and wool dress.

ca. 1944 --- Model wearing black dress accessorized by neutral colored items.

ca. 1944 --- Model wearing black skirt together with green wool jersey gloves,  green snake belt and zebra striped, silk crepe blouse.

ca. 1944 --- Model wearing a slate blue and white sleeveless dress by Clarepotter, jewelry from Harry Winston.

ca. 1944 --- Model wearing pink silk satin box-coat with matching gloves. 

ca. 1944 --- Model seated on dining table wearing black and white checked gingham dress with bustle and red checked inset in back by Adrian.

ca. 1944 --- Model behind bicycle wearing blouse and shorts set of green silk shantung, gingham shirt around waist.

ca. 1944 --- Model wearing gray tweed suit, holding platinum fox coat, both from Hattie Carnegie.

ca. 1945 --- Model wearing bonnet with roses and over-veil by Lilly Dache.

ca. 1945 --- Two models wearing spring 1945 fashions: (left) one wears a shantung silk dress by Omar Kiam for Ben Reig Design and hat by John Frederics; and model (on right) wears suit by Maurice Rentner with hat by Lilly Dache.

ca. 1945 --- Model wearing black veiled hat with roses, black short-sleeved dress from Trigere together with silk scarf crowded with roses.

ca. 1945 --- Actress Sono Osato wears an empire-waisted linen dress from Bergdorf Goodman in modern interior from Robsjohn Gibbings.

ca. 1945 --- Model wearing halter-topped pleated white rayon dress from Tina Leser.

ca. 1945 --- Model wearing 18th-century-style rayon brocade full-length dinner dress from Suzanne-Augustine.

ca. 1945 --- Byra Hemingway, wife of John Hemingway, wearing a silver beige American broadtail topcoat from Jay Thorpe.

ca. 1945 --- Actress Joan Fontaine wears silver mink jacket from Reine.

ca. 1944 --- Two models wearing full-length velvet and crinoline dresses, the skirts stiffened with crinoline, both from Henri Bendel.

ca. 1944 --- Model seated wearing rust velvet dress with gold embroidery at the neckline, a Henri Bendel original.

ca. 1944 --- Model wearing veiled hat by Walter Florell, lipstick by Chen Yu.

ca. 1944 --- Model leaning against stone wall wearing yellow-green jersey halter and shorts set from Townley.

ca. 1944 --- Model leaning in doorway wearing two-piece bandeau-topped bathing suit from Tina Leser.

ca. 1940 --- Model leaning against tree stump, wearing veil with pompadour chou and silk jersey wedding dress in rose-beige.

ca. 1941 --- Seated model wearing snow white rayon jersey dress with rose design.

ca. 1941 --- Model wearing sand-beige dress trimmed with coarse white lace, sitting on setting of ocean floor, surrounded by shells.

ca. 1941 --- Two models, one in bolero and Celanese rayon bathing suit, the other in print kerchief and Celanese rayon jersey suit, lying on sand surrounded by shells.

ca. 1941 --- Two models, one in sand silk shantung and red blouse, the other in sand linen playdress with red and blue bands, lying on towels in sand.

ca. 1941 --- Three models, the first in a gray Celanese rayon sharkskin and jersey blouse, the second in sand-colored suit of Celanese rayon gabardine with silk sash, and third in deep-sand-colored Celanese rayon gabardine and sand-and-blue jacket, lying on sand surrounded by shells.

ca. 1941 --- Model wearing lime-green-and-white silk chiffon summer dress with low-draped cowl and soft tunic, serving man in a dinner jacket at an ice cream parlor.

ca. 1949 --- Model wearing blue silk satin evening gown scattered with delicate, dry-point pattern of embroidery and silver beads.

ca. 1946 --- Model wearing chocolate brown curve-button suit with nutria lined hood from Hattie Carnegie.

ca. 1946 --- Model wearing sand-colored flannel suit buttoned with coins by Sacony.

ca. 1946 --- Model wearing clay brown shaped camel's hair coat with full sleeves by Monte-Sano.

ca. 1946 --- Model wearing Directoire-style gown shirred and banded with a loose, full-length skirt.

ca. 1946 --- Model wearing sand-colored jersey high-throated dress from Nettie Rosenstein.

ca. 1947 --- Model wearing a face-framing dinner hat, made of feathers by Braagaard, and bright red lipstick from 'Lipcolor'.

ca. 1942 --- Model in red and green Christmas hat, holding array of gifts in her arms.

ca. 1946 --- Model wearing earth brown-colored fleece coat by Hattie Carnegie.

ca. 1946 --- Model wearing stone brown wool coat with decolletage collar by Ben Reig.

ca. 1946 --- Model wearing sand-colored flannel suit with curve-buttoned jacket by Patullo, together with mink stole by Esther Dorothy.

ca. 1946 --- Model wearing sand-colored jersey dinner dress with fluted hemline by Clare Potter.

ca. 1946 --- Model wearing dark gray wool fitted suit from B.H. Wragge together with leopard cloche and handbag.

ca. 1946 --- Model wearing gray square-cut double-breasted suit of herringbone tweed by Kraus.

ca. 1946 --- Model wearing steel blue draped rayon dinner dress from Trigere.

ca. 1946 --- Model wearing steel-gray double-breasted fitted suit by Larry Aldrich.

ca. 1946 --- Model wearing chrome gray fitted wool jersey cardigan together with gray wool flannel skirt from B.H.Wragge.

ca. 1946 --- Model wearing gray and white dotted wool jersey, rounded at the hip, by Hattie Carnegie.

ca. 1943 --- Model standing on rocks at pond edge with tree branch hanging over into the pond, wearing brown halter top below a white, long-sleeved, cropped jacket and short white skirt with big brown polka-dots; skirt and halter by Clare Potter, white sandals and hair tied back in a mustard-colored scarf.

ca. 1943 --- Back view of model, Mrs. John Rawlings, standing with hand on the back of one of a pair of gilt chairs, wearing  a black low-back cocktail dress with straps, long black satin gloves, diamond necklace and diamond clips in  her 'side-swept' coiffure by Antoine of Saks Fifth Avenue, black photo background.

ca. 1944 --- Model with back to the camera, wearing a short red wool coat by Hockanum, with large flat shoulder pads, and gathered at the waist; worn with a blue skirt, white gloves, a blue turban; Model facing an unidentified wood sculpture with spot light hitting the back wall and a Robsjohn-Gibbings armchair to the side.

ca. 1944 --- Prima ballerina Alicia Markova sitting on an oversized red and white candy stripped cushion, modeling  chartreuse-green dinner pyjamas in rayon crepe, by Enka.

ca. 1943 --- Studio set-up of model reclining under a large-brimmed pink sun hat, her legs are extended up against a 'ship's mast,' with red raffia (espadrille) sandals on her feet and hanging off the mast. She is holding a cigarette in her hands.

ca. 1943 --- Model leaning on sill at room corner, wearing pale, natural color mink coat draped over shoulders; beneath, a platinum beige jumper dress with blue and black diagonal at neck, by Clare Potter; short beige gloves, black cloche with ivory feather; dramatic wall shadows with model's profile shadow; early Vogue cover pinned up on wall behind. 

ca. 1947 --- Three models, posed around piano, wearing evening gowns and diamond jewelry.

ca. 1948 --- Model in purple skirt and bandeau top, on pink cushion with model standing above holding umbrella, both women are in front of small rowboat.

ca. 1948 --- Model wearing Traina-Norell's black silk taffeta dress with roses and lace-bound organdie, leghorn hat is made to order at Henri Bendel.

ca. 1945 --- Three models around red sofa all wearing white ballgowns for the winter season.

ca. 1946 --- Two models wearing ensembles featuring 'whittled waistcoats' from Traina-Norell.

(Images by © Condé Nast Archive/CORBIS)

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