In the years following World War II, Condé Nast had a grand photography studio in the Graybar Building in midtown Manhattan. It was stocked with the latest equipment, and a stable of photographers and assistants cranking out fashion spreads, portraits, and product still lifes. One of those studio photographers, Richard Rutledge, is relatively unknown to us today, but for a 15-year period following the war he was one of the most frequently published photographers in
Vogue,
Glamour, and
House & Garden.
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| Fashion photography by Richard Rutledge in the 1950s |
Rutledge, who died in Paris one week prior to his 62nd birthday, in the autumn of 1985, might have been called a ‘utility player’ had he been a baseball player instead of a photographer. He was comfortable shooting in black and white or color; in the studio or outdoors; with SLR or 8×10 plate; fashion, portraits, travel, still life—it was all the same to him. In his own words, he found darkroom work ‘a chore’, what he liked best were the results.
While Rutledge’s black-and-white work is accomplished, his color work stands above. The color films used during Rutledge’s day have an incredible depth that, when combined with his skillful compositions, produce shockingly modern results. He preferred animated and natural expressions on models, and often used playful banter to coax the person from behind the model’s façade. He also seems to have had a fondness for red; the color is incorporated into nearly every shot.
These stunning color photos are part of his work that Richard Rutledge took portraits of classic beauties in the 1950s.
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| Dovima wearing a brown flannel suit with a red velvet collar, matching felt hat with grosgrain band of red and blue silk twill scarf, 1951 |
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| Model wearing a brown and white window pane plaid flannel shirt and a brown wool twill skirt, 1951 |
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| Evelyn Tripp wearing a necklace of reversed seed-cowl pearls, 1952 |
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| Model is wearing a sheer pink shirtwaist blouse and a bell-shaped skirt by Nelly de Grab, 1952 |
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| Model is wearing a slim tweed coat, a matching skirt with a single walking pleat, and wool jersey blouse with neckline tie, matching gloves and raspberry cloche hat, 1952 |